Wednesday, December 30, 2015

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Wednesday, December 9, 2015

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Tuesday, November 10, 2015

The Arsenic Dress: How Poisonous Green Pigments Terrorized Victorian Fashion

The Arsenic Dress: How Poisonous Green Pigments Terrorized Victorian Fashion

The Arsenic Dress: How Poisonous Green Pigments Terrorized Victorian Fashion

Clothing in nineteenth-century Europe and America was so thoroughly dangerous, it’s amazing anyone survived.

That’s what you might very well take away from Fashion Victims: The Dangers of Dress Past and Present, a lavishly illustrated chronicle of ways clothing

tried to kill both creators and their customers in the Victorian era, largely in the U.K., France and North America. Author Alison Matthews David talks

vivid-but-toxic dyes, cosmetics laden with lead, and flammable fabrics, pairing beautiful examples of popular styles with sometimes gruesome illustrations of

the injuries they might’ve inflicted. “Fashion causes literal, physical harm to the bodies of its wearers and its makers and has done so for centuries,”

she explains.

For instance: A lovely emerald green used in fabrics and popular floral headdresses alike was made, in part, of arsenic. This would become an obsession on

the part of the Victorian media. The following is excerpted from Fashion Victims.

On November 20, 1861, Matilda Scheurer, a 19-year-old artificial flower maker, died of “accidental” poisoning.

The formerly healthy, “good-looking” young woman worked for Mr. Bergeron in central London, along with a hundred other employees. She “fluffed”

artificial leaves, dusting them with an attractive green powder that she inhaled with every breath and ate off her hands at each meal. The brilliant hue of

this green pigment, which was used to colour dresses and hair ornaments, was achieved by mixing copper and highly toxic arsenic trioxide or “white arsenic”

as it was known. The press described her death in grisly detail, and by all accounts, Scheurer’s final illness was horrible.

The Arsenic Dress: How Poisonous Green Pigments Terrorized Victorian Fashion

She vomited green waters; the whites of her eyes had turned green, and she told her doctor that “everything she looked at was green.” In her final hours,

she had convulsions every few minutes until she died, with “an expression of great anxiety” and foaming at the mouth, nose and eyes. An autopsy confirmed

that her fingernails had turned a very pronounced green and the arsenic had reached her stomach, liver, and lungs. As Punch wrote sarcastically in an article

entitled “Pretty Poison-Wreaths” two weeks later, “It was proved by medical testimony that she had been ill from the same cause four times within the last

eighteen months. Under such circumstances as these, death is evidently about as accidental as it is when resulting from a railway collision occasioned by

arrangements known to be faulty.” To the nonmedical public, it seemed that Scheurer’s death was predictable and entirely preventable and that her life had

been cruelly sacrificed to wealthy women’s desire for fashionable adornments.

Several philanthropic organizations took up her cause, including the aristocratic members of the Ladies’ Sanitary Association. One member, a Miss Nicholson,

had already visited the garrets and workshops where flowers were made and had published a shocking firsthand account of following “half-clad” and “half-

starved” little girls with bandaged hands and “some cutaneous disease” as they pick up an order of leaves and turn it into bouquets. Nicholson wrote that

one of the girls stubbornly refused to work any more. She had observed her fellow flower makers in the workshop wearing handkerchiefs soaked with blood and

she herself “had been kept on [working with] green . . . till her face was one mass of sores,” and she was almost blind. Nicholson’s article alerted her

readers to the fact that the young, female workers were ignorant of the nature and effects of arsenical greens and “imagine that it gives them a dreadful

cold.” After Scheurer’s death, the Ladies’ Sanitary Association commissioned Dr. A. W. Hoffman, an analytical chemist with a worldwide reputation, to test

artificial leaves from a ladies’ headdress. Hoffman shared his results with the public in a London Times article sensationally titled “The Dance of Death.

”The expert concluded that an average headdress contained enough arsenic to poison 20 people. The “green tarlatanes so much of late in vogue for ball

dresses” contained as much as half their weight in arsenic, meaning a ball gown fashioned from 20 yards of this fabric would have 900 grains of arsenic. A

Berlin doctor had also determined that “from a dress of this kind no less than 60 grains powdered off in the course of a single evening.” A grain, based on

the weight of a wheat grain, is equivalent to 64.8 milligrams or 1/7000th of a pound. Four or five grains were lethal for an average adult.

The Arsenic Dress: How Poisonous Green Pigments Terrorized Victorian Fashion

A week after Hoffman’s inflammatory letter was published, the British Medical Journal called green-clad women “killing” (Victorian slang for attractive)

femmes fatales: “Well may the fascinating wearer of it be called a killing creature. She actually carries in her skirts poison enough to slay the whole of

the admirers she may meet with in half a dozen ball-rooms.” Female activists had called on chemists to warn the British public. Although wealthy women clad

in green were fingered as murderers, it was privileged ladies from the same social classes who had blown the whistle on the dangers of arsenical green dress,

calling on chemists to back up their claims.

As these actions proved, artists were not the true colour innovators of the period; in the 19th century, the chemist had all but replaced the painter. Like

the protean shapes of felt hats created with the help of chemical substances, science contributed a rainbow of man-made tints that was infinitely mutable and

constantly shifting to suit consumer taste, resulting in frequent palette changes on men’s and women’s bodies. Colour was one scientific domain that women

were encouraged to participate in, particularly as it related to dress. As Charlotte Nicklas has argued, colour science as propounded by the famous French

dye chemist Michel-Euègne Chevreul frequently found its way into fashion periodicals aimed at middle-class women. Chemistry democratized previously expensive

imported animal and mineral dyes forever, as suggested by the Victorian slang term “Totty-all colours,” meaning a woman who contrived to combine all the

hues of the rainbow in her dress. Yet as with other consumer products, democratization came at a cost to health, and no colour was more toxic than the

verdant pigment that killed Matilda Scheurer. After researching the ample material, medical, and chemical evidence of toxic colours in the 19th century, I

find it surprising that fashion historians have not addressed this aspect of dress history. The substances used to tint dress and accessories left a trail of

polluted air, water, and soil, sickening workers and consumers.

Toxic green wreaths and poisoned flowermakers made headlines, but in the 19th century arsenic and the arsenophobia it provoked were everywhere. James Whorton

’s book The Arsenic Century: How Victorian Britain was Poisoned at Home, Work and Play beautifully demonstrates just how ubiquitous the substance was. The

“arsenious acid” or white arsenic (arsenic trioxide) that went into pigments, rat poisons, and medicines was a cheap, colourless substance, a fine, white

powder obtained as a by-product of mining and smelting metals like copper, cobalt, and tin. Arsenic was used by doctors to heal and by murderers to kill,

accidentally finding its way into food and even beer. A child could buy it over the counter in a pharmacy. The poison equivalent of fur felt hats, it could

assume so many forms that it was called “the very Proteus of poisons.” In Britain, acts like the Control of Poisons Bill of 1851 and the Arsenic Act of

1868 were passed to limit the amounts that could be sold to individuals, but it was completely legal and unregulated for large- scale use in industry. Many

hundreds of tonnes went into consumer products annually.

Across the channel in France, Ange-Gabriel-Maxime Vernois (1809–1877), a consulting physician to the highest in the land, including Emperor Napoleon III,

was conducting his own studies. Despite his high rank, he also had a strong interest in occupational hazards. In 1859, he had investigated artificial

flowermaking workshops and found that the trade was making workers deathly ill. He described the health hazards of each operation in the trade and a

chromolithograph illustrating his article graphically depicts how the toxic green dust ruined the hands and bodies of flower workers. In a workshop or

factory environment, it was ground under fingernails and eaten off of dirty hands. It blistered toes peeping from holes in worn shoes, and settled on floors

where it killed rats and mice. Vernois noted that flowermaking ateliers were one of the few workshops with no vermin or cats to catch them, save for one

sickly feline specimen he observed. At night, workers carried the powder home on their clothes, or worse, it was spread all over the cramped apartments of “

independent” piece workers.

Arsenic was considered an “irritant” poison in the 19th century. When it came into contact with the body, it functioned as an “escharotic, a substance

that exerts a caustic effect on the skin, producing sores, scabs, and sloughing of the damaged tissue.” This is clear from the “ulceration” of the green

hands with yellow nails, illustrated in the redness and peeling of the skin around the nostrils and lips, and deep, white-rimmed cancerous scars on a worker

’s leg that look almost like craters on the surface of the skin. Skin abrasion and wounds allowed further entry to the poison; Vernois singled out the men

called apprêteurs d’étoffe as especially vulnerable: they dyed white cloth yellow with another irritant chemical dye called picric acid to create a more

“natural” shade of green, brushed emerald green paste directly into the cloth with their bare forearms, and stretched it out to dry on wooden frames

pierced with nails. The nails lacerated their hands and arms, allowing the poison to directly enter the bloodstream in what Vernois called a constant

“inoculation” with arsenic. When men urinated, arsenic on their hands caused painful inflammations and lesions of the scrotum and inner thighs that

resembled syphilis. These injuries, which sometimes led to gangrene, could take six weeks of hospital bed rest to cure. After the cloth had been prepared by

the men, girls and young women turned it into leaves and bouquets. These female workers lacked appetite and were “nauseous, with colic and diarrhea, anemia,

pallor, and constant headaches that madethem feel as if their temples were being pressed in a vise.” As a consequence, the French and German governments

quickly passed legislation against these pigments. The British government took no action, and in 1860, only a year before Scheurer’s death, the British

doctor Arthur Hill Hassall described the condition of flower workers in London as “wretched in the extreme.”

The Arsenic Dress: How Poisonous Green Pigments Terrorized Victorian Fashion

These arsenical tints also harmed the hands of their wearers, if less gravely. As late as 1871, a “lady who purchased a box of green-coloured gloves at a

well-known and respectable house” suffered from repeated skin ulcerations around her fingernails until arsenical salts were detected. This was perhaps not

surprising since trade manuals from the time suggest that some types of dyes were “simply brushed” directly on gloves in a liquid solution “with no

further treatment” to fix the colours, and leather gloves could easily leach the substance onto the lady’s warm, sweaty hands. Although we have forgotten

these dangers, the conservative world of Parisian haute couture has a longer, if hazy, memory of them.

In the 2005 documentary Signé Chanel, one of the most powerful women in the Chanel haute couture house tells us that “seamstresses don’t like green.” This

antigreen stance has become a mythic, vague superstition, linked with a fear of “bad luck.” Because the original Coco Chanel was so famous for her

modernist black and white colour palette, we have a hard time imagining her using “natural” shades like green for her dresses. Her successor Karl

Lagerfeld, himself attired in stark black and white, similarly shuns them. Yet Coco Chanel’s avoidance of certain hues for her collections may not have been

purely an aesthetic choice. As Scheurer’s death proves, fears or superstitions surrounding the colour green in couture stem from concrete 19th-century

medical logic.
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she was working in a fashion boutique. She soon had millinery shop of her own on the ground floor of her lover’s Paris apartment, learned the technical

aspects of her trade from a professional called Lucienne Rabaté, and polished her skills with the “Queen of Milliners,” Caroline Reboux (1837–1927).

Whether she learned about arsenical greens from the nuns at the orphanage, her employer at the boutique, or the professional milliners she worked with, her

teachers belonged to an older generation who remembered and had perhaps experienced medical problems from arsenic firsthand. Though the French had banned

arsenical pigments in artificial foliage by this period, it still tinted myriad consumer items and was widely used in the marketing and packaging of fashion

goods. Retailers used green or green-trimmed “band” boxes to sell, carry, and store accessories. Tests of identical green paper shoe boxes in the Bata Shoe

Museum revealed substantial amounts of arsenic, and in 1880 a chemist in Scotland found extremely high levels of arsenic in boxes like these. Given the

historical evidence and the survival of so many arsenic-laced items, it is hard to believe that this story has been written out of fashion history except in

vague superstitions recorded in a documentary film.

Reprinted with permission from Fashion Victims: The Dangers of Dress Past and Present by Alison Matthews David (Bloomsbury, 2015).



Monday, October 26, 2015

www.lover-fashion.com SheIn Maxi Dress Still Holds Its Position in Fashion Trend of Fall 2015

SheIn Maxi Dress Still Holds Its Position in Fashion Trend of Fall 2015
 SheIn, recently launched a series of promotional activities to celebrate the upcoming Halloween and Christmas party. They also placed great emphasis on their original maxi dress collection which aimed to hold the fashion trend of Fall 2015.

When striving to looking effortlessly chic, gorgeous and charming, you will never go wrong with a piece of maxi dress. When the temperature goes up, quite a lot of girls are inclined to consider dress as their top priority. Especially, maxi dress should be pointed out.

Truth can be told maxi dress has undoubtedly gained large popularity among women worldwide nowadays. Advantages can be easily figured out.

- Fashion

There is no doubt that maxi dress is one of the top fashion trends among all wearable trends. Compared to other clothes, maxi dress has multiple colors, different styles and patterns for your selection. Fashion is a somewhat vague conception, perhaps the best evidence is the frequent appearance on Paris or Milan fashion shows.

- Creativity
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The word 'creativity' does not refer to the creativity of maxi dress designers, instead, it indicates these girls who have creative ideas about how to wear maxi dress. You can transform a piece of maxi dress into a maxi skirt in a much easier way if you think maxi dress cannot meet your fashion desire.

- Versatility

There is no certain occasion that maxi dress should be worn, from formal to informal occasions, from home to work, from day to night. Just like any other dress, maxi dress can be accessorized. It is easily to match with other clothes and accessories. People simply like the elegance and  versatility of the maxi dress and it can be wear all day long.

- Comfy

A comfortable dress can make feel that you are sailing through the ocean. Maxi dress  is usually made from cotton, chiffon, lace or polyester and other soft materials. These materials are known as their comfortability and breathability. Besides, due to its unique shape, maxi dress is neither too tight nor too loose, it almost perfectly fits any figure. Perhaps these are exact reasons why most people are so fond of wearing maxi dresses on any occasion even in hot summer.

- Simplicity

You can never go wrong wearing on a maxi dress with a piece of jacket or blouse. It makes you trendy or you can just wear it as is and be elegant and confident at any time any where. Proper high heel, handbag and jewelries will be great addition of your whole look. So, it's time for you to show your best look for all year round.
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Also, SheIn recently launched a store-wide promotional activity called "Greatest Dress Hits ". If you purchase two items and then you will get a 50% discount on the second item. Shop your adorable maxi dress here and get it into your fall closet at such rock-bottom prices.

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SheIn is an online store boasting high quality clothes and other fashionable accessories. Our objective is to be the largest online wardrobe company in the world. We aim to offer our customers a variety of the latest and most fashionable clothing.

Tuesday, October 20, 2015

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Now, I would like to introduce this unique kind of Sexy Off the Shoulder Lace Babydoll With Mesh Trimmed Front Slit and Smooth Back. It is very sexy, you will know it when you see it. In my opinion, the most charming part of this babydoll lingerie is the mesh trimmed front slit, when you wear it and show it to your husband, he must feel excited, because you are so seductive that he can not control himself. And you can focus on the smooth back. It may surprise you because its transparent design. Can your husband promise that he can control himself from having sex with you? I can promise that once you wear this lingerie, you have already won your husband’ heart.
You can change yourself, change your style, taste, and your feeling. Once you do that, you can win your husband’s heart back. Woman wants to be accompany with the a man she loved, and once you regain his heart, he will say ”I can not leave without you”. And you will win.

Saturday, October 10, 2015

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Tuesday, September 29, 2015

Deals on Plus Size Jeans

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Olympian Amanda Bingson, who gained notoriety for her cover spread on ESPN, as reported by the Inquisitr, as well as for her hammer-throwing skills in the 2105 Olympics in Beijing, knows all too well what it is like to not meet the American cultural ideal of “thin.” In fact, she’s in a class that is highly under-represented: her shoulders are a size 16 or 18 (plus sized by American Standards) and her waist is a size ten, not considered plus sized by most retailers, according to ESPN.

In fact, studies show that 67 percent, more than two-thirds, of American women wear a size 14 -32, clearly putting them in the plus-size category. Yet many designers, including those for teenagers — often the most fashion-conscious among us — only offer clothing that is available from size 0 – 12. While this seems to be counterproductive to sales, other studies have shown that the ability to wear the much-coveted small sizes and designers may actually make them more in demand among those who can wear them. But that isn’t the case for Amanda Bingson, who has stated that she’s always had difficulty finding nice, fashionable clothing for her age group, according to the New York Post.
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25-year-old Bingson, who holds the American record for the hammer throw, is officially sponsored by Nike, but has many other retailers who are now interested in starting up clothing lines for larger ladies with Bingson as the spokesmodel. In fact, Bingson was flown to New York by plus-size chain Lane Bryant to participate in the retailer’s new campaign, #PlusIsEqual, a slogan which is taking social media by storm, showing that plus-sized women are worthy of attractive, sexy clothing. While Bingson is contracted with Nike for performance wear, she has no official casual or formal wear apparel company who has the monopoly on her persona.

The latest clothing company to enlist the Olympian model is Slink Jeans, a plus-size apparel company that launched online on Sept. 16, and featured Bingson in an alluring, sensual photo shoot on Malibu Beach wearing its jeans and T-shirts. Slink jeans may be for larger women, but it is also for those with bigger pockets, with some of its T-shirts retailing in the vicinity of fifty dollars. While many clothing companies are beginning to sell plus-sized lines, in general, they are more costly, which is a hardship for many women.


Sunday, September 6, 2015

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Wednesday, July 29, 2015

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Thursday, June 25, 2015

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It’s the trend that’s dominating Pinterest wedding boards everywhere: “mismatched” bridesmaid dresses. They’re a creative departure from the more traditional, matchy-matchy color schemes we see at weddings, and a welcome opportunity for your girls to pick a cut and color that works for them.

We’ve partnered with Nordstrom Weddings to round up “mismatched” bridal parties who get an A-plus for execution. Check out their beautiful wedding day looks below.

1.
bionda
Image: Emily Harris Photography
Take notes: this is textbook stuff! This bridal party’s look works because they established a base tone for their floor-length gowns. Bride Michal Wrotslavsky gave her bridesmaids champagne color swatches and asked them to find dresses in the same color family.

2.
bionda
Image: Andrew Mark Photography
A simple way to execute this trend is by focusing on one color and giving the bridesmaids free rein to choose a cut and fabric that works for them. This bold blue pops and the party looks coordinated despite the range of styles. Bonus: we love that the colored bouquets play opposite to the dresses!


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Image: We Heart Photography
These dresses certainly run a range of colors, but the dusty pastel color scheme that ties them together makes for an elegant, sweetly feminine bridal party. Plus, these dresses look like they’d be easy to dance in and ripe for re-wearing.

4.
bionda
Image: Eric Kelley Photography
Gorgeous scheme for a fall wedding -- we’re thinking wine country? This party proves that establishing a few tones and specifying dress length can make it easy for a wide variety of dresses to come together in harmony.

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Image: Erich McVey Photography
We seriously adore this bridal party’s '20s-inspired look. Metallic beading and glitter seem like the perfect way to diversify a bridal party dressed in a single color. Bride Samantha Rosen says she knew she wanted an "neutral, embellished" look for her bridesmaids from day one, picking most of the dresses before her own.

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This group goes for minidresses ranging in color from cream to mocha, making for a summery, earthy bridal party.

7.
bionda
Image: Briana Purser Photography
This retro-inspired bridal party took the “mismatched” trend in another direction, opting for the same cut in glam '60s brights. Bride Cara Tolentino had four colors in mind and assigned them based on what would flatter her bridesmaids' skin tones. The coordinated shoes and pearls are the adorable cherry on top.

Tuesday, June 9, 2015

Summer swimsuit three popular styles


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Before the start of the summer vacation, you don't buy your beach Bikini  Start preparing now. There are many styles for your choice, these are the most popular summer styles.Bandage type Bikini, weaving, sexy and cute retro style bathing suit. Let us have a look this summer fashion.
1 a small section
The three point Bikini is beautiful for the summer. In the new style you'll find out a lot of lacing styles, bright colors,cute round little. But if your body is plump, wear thesestyles should be careful.
The 2 one shoulder
This style is obtained from the clothes on the inspiration,but like the one shoulder dress, give a person a kind ofsexy temptation feeling. Through the time may not be very comfortable, but no matter on the beach, swimming pool,this is beautiful. Try to wear a single shoulder Bikini andnormal Bikini compare you'll see.
3 lovely lace
Lace up style of swimsuit is the popular trend of this year.Whether it is a small lace or elegant flowers, will let yourneck, waist, hips, looks very beautiful.

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Monday, March 9, 2015

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